![]() The debug screen showing the temperature settings, total cooling and heating time. The interface will update with the current temperature and heating/cooling mode every second. The startup as seen form the Arduino IDE serial interface. To turn it back on, type 1 followed by Enter. To turn the system off, type 0 followed by Enter. The hysteresis can also be set by typing 'h' followed by the hysteresis value. Your settings will be saved in the EEPROM so that a power failure will not affect your settings. For example, to set the target temperature to 20☌, type 's20' and then press Enter. The default temperature scale is Centigrade, although it can be changed to Fahrenheit by typing 'f'. ![]() To set the target temperature, type 's' followed by the desired temperature. You'll need to update the paths in the #include statements to match your system. The tubing will transfer heat either to or from the vessel based on heating or cooling mode.ĭownload the two files attached. Hold the insulator closed around a carboy or plastic bucket using tape or a bungee cord. The mini-barrel was just a convenient prop, not an actual fermentation vessel. Should I just take it over to the nearest sink and pour distilled water through it Any rust issues with that Thanks.Ĭome join the discussion about computing, builds, collections, displays, models, styles, scales, specifications, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more.The carboy insulator is lined with the flexible plastic tubing and taped to the inside with foil tape. My first instinct was to hit it with compressed air, but Ive been reading a lot of posts where people run water through it.īut those posts are all to do with systems which are not self-enclosed. The radiator has not been cleaned since I did my build in 2012. If anyone has a working file please upload it to its really easy to sign up, its free. Ive tried the CD and version 1.2 and no go and cant even open the software to run its internal update. Ive installed the latest Microsoft.NET Framework 4.8 and no luck. It was working before on windows 10 pro 圆4 now im getting Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed) in Device Manager as im reading is the case with everyone else. ![]() I also soaked the copper cold plate in a Vinegarsalt solution to get rid of varnish, just before putting the coolant back in, then wiped the contact side off with a thin coat of Mx4 thermal compound to keep it from varnishing again.īetween the coolant from the FX-8150 cooler and the Antec Cooler, it only filled it 12 way Adding 8 oz. When I pulled it apart, the hole for the impeller shaft had wallered out, so I did replace the impeller with the dead FX-8150 pump impeller. ![]() Pretty easy to fix, just make sure you have a good set of drivers. Usually what fails on these pumps is the teflon shaft for the impeller gets gunked up with corrosion, or the cold plate gets gunked up on the fins. Going to be painted pink and put in my nieces new (my brothers old) gaming rig. V8 Dante CPU: Ryzen 5 2600X Motherboard: Asus prime X470 Pro GPU: Power Color Red Devil RX580 RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury Hard Drive: Crucial MX500 Power Supply: Corsair CX750m Cooling: Cooler Master ML240L Case: NZXT H500 Operating System: Windows 10. Dimitri clarence brandon sonic monks zippyshareĪny suggestions I will try their support on Monday, but I though I would see if anybody here might be able to help. The link on their website seems to be a dead end. I need to download the software that runs it again, ChillControlV.exe. Its a RAR file so youll need WinRAR or something to unpack it Good Luck.Ĭould the CPU be the culprit or my rookie mistake with the RAM.įuture Publishing Limited Quay House, The Ambury, Bath BA1 1UA. This is the link for the new beta 2.1 version from July 17th 2015 If that link is brokem, use this one. Antec Chill Control Software Download Anywhere. ![]()
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